Refrigerator & freezer installation.

Often not. Many manufacturers sell the water supply line separately as a kit, while some built-in models ship with tubing attached. Our team can add a refrigerator supply line to your estimate.

Follow your model's manual. Manufacturers recommend 1/4-inch copper or their own braided supply line, and some warn that ordinary plastic lines can crack with age. It should connect through an easy-to-reach shutoff valve, not a self-piercing valve.

Measure the height, width and depth of the space, then check the model's installation guide for clearances. They vary: one maker asks for 1 inch at the top and back, another 1/4 inch at the top and sides. Allow room for the doors to open beside a wall, and measure doorways, hallways and stairs on the way in.

Follow your model's moving instructions. One maker says a refrigerator moved on its side should stand upright as long as it was down, or 24 hours after more than a day. French-door, bottom-freezer, compact and built-in models should stay upright, so check the manual before moving or plugging it in.

Check your manual. One maker suggests allowing about 24 hours and waiting until the fridge is at or below 37°F and the freezer at or below 0°F before a full load; the ice bin can take up to three days to fill.

Yes. Manufacturers recommend dispensing about a gallon of water and discarding the first batches of ice after the water line is connected, to flush the new line and filter.

It's fitted into the cabinetry: anti-tip brackets fastened to the wall, custom panels sized to the manufacturer's specs, and often a dedicated circuit, which is work for a licensed electrician. Send the model so our team can review the opening and panels.

Check the manual first. Many refrigerators are built for spaces that stay between about 55°F and 110°F. Garages often fall outside that range, which can overwork the cooling system.